[WOMEN AND ÁO DÀI - HONORING OR CONSTRAINING?]

Recently, the incident in Marie Curie High School (District 3, Hồ Chí Minh City) calculated training points based on gender in its áo dài synchronized performance has sparked controversy across social media. Specifically, according to the school’s announcement, the event was compulsory for all female students to take part in the performance; otherwise, 0.5 points would be deducted from their training point. However, for male students, contribution is voluntary and 0.5 points will be granted upon participation. This incident has raised a question: Is women’s wearing áo dài an act of honor or an act of coercion?

Table of Contents

1. Why do female students in Viet Nam have to wear áo dài to school?

2. Is it really necessary to wear áo dài as a uniform? 

3. Áo dài as an uniform and its inconveniences

4. Other countries in the world - Is it compulsory for female students there to wear traditional costumes?

5. Viet Nam and the conception of wearing áo dài as school uniform

6. Áo dài: a national tradition or a shackle on women?

Why do female students in Vietnam have to wear áo dài to school?

For decades, áo dài has been an epitome of Vietnamese traditional culture. Nowadays, various schools in a number of local regions all over the country have ordered that áo dài become school uniforms for female students. This decision not only aims to establish order and discipline at school but also preserve the country’s cultural tradition. In addition, wearing áo dài to school is widely deemed a way to honor the elegance and beauty of Vietnamese women. 

Is it really necessary to wear áo dài as a uniform? 

In Viet Nam, schools have been using collared dress shirts and trousers as students' uniforms. Alternatives to cultivate order and discipline in school apart from wearing white áo dài are manifold, such as collared dress shirts, trousers, and skirts. Moreover, a shirt together with a pair of trousers is a choice of uniform that is more convenient, efficient, suitable for all students than áo dài. They are convenient for movement, easy to wash and affordable for the financial condition of many families.

Mr. Đăng Cư Võ, vice principal of Hùng Vương High School (Quảng Nam Province), shared, “Personally, I encourage female students to wear áo dài since, at their age, they need to be educated about the traditions of our nation.” However, there are many other ways to maintain national identity. What is the point of upholding tradition by “forcing” female students to wear áo dài, which can interfere with their studies? And if it was to preserve tradition then why only female students had to wear áo dài but male students were not required to do so?

As regards this issue, Mr. Viết Đăng Du Nguyễn, a teacher at Lê Quý Đôn High School (District 3, Hồ Chí Minh City), analyzed: “Firstly, having male students wear áo dài would raise additional cost for their parents. Secondly, áo dài is to honor the beauty of women with attractive curvy features, which does not apply to male students.” However, this opinion only touched on financial issues for male students while ignoring that for their female counterparts, leading to gender inequality. Making áo dài, be it for male or female students, will cost an extra. If a uniform is required, then it should be applied to both two genders, or neither of them.

Furthermore, the opinion that wearing áo dài is to “honor attractive features” of women is also controversial. Some are concerned that this is “sexualizing” young girls, especially in middle and high schools, where almost all female students are still adolescents. As a result, the opinion of Mr. Nguyễn was also questioned over its appropriateness, given it came from a teacher. 

Áo dài as a uniform and its inconveniences

Aside from the cultural and aesthetic values, áo dài also causes inconveniences for female students when worn as a school uniform.

First, wearing áo dài hinders female students’ mobility. Many female students have to tie the two tails for ease of movement when playing with friends. Moreover, most students in Vietnam go to school by bike or motorbike. The number of traffic accidents caused by áo dài is far from insignificant. In 2016, fashion designer Đức Hùng Bùi shared the story of his high school daughter who had an accident as the tails of her áo dài got stuck in the motorbike. He explained that because his daughter didn’t tie up the tail of áo dài, she fell into the ground, broke her helmet, and scraped herself while her áo dài was in tatters. 

Second, áo dài may become a nightmare if worn under inclement weather. With long, tight-fitting tails, wearing áo dài on a hot weather day will make it worse for female students. Additionally, the white color is prone to staining, and thin cloth is highly water-absorbent and thus revealing underwear; the following reasons make áo dài uncomfortable to wear during heavy rain or on period days. 

Third, that schools require áo dài as a uniform also means students’ families have to put aside a non-negligible amount of money for uniforms. The average cost of a white áo dài ranges from 700,000 VND to over 1 million VND, including the cost of fabric and labor. For financially hard-pressed families, this expense can be a financial burden in raising their children. 

Fourth, not all female students feel comfortable wearing áo dài. It is well-known that the design of áo dài embraces body curves, which inadvertently imposes strict standards on women. A beautiful girl must have a feminine, gentle beauty and “a graceful body with pronounced curves”. This creates many obstacles for female students whose appearance does not fit the stereotype of beauty standards. As a result, many female students fall victim to body shaming, leading to mental problems. 

Other countries in the world - Is it compulsory for female students there to wear traditional costumes?

School uniform is a familiar concept in many countries, but its approach and meaning vary according to culture, history, and educational philosophy.
In a 2023 survey by Women in Education (WIE) conducted on 2,000 high school female students in Hồ Chí Minh city, up to 68% shared that they felt uncomfortable or inconvenienced wearing áo dài everyday. Apart from difficulties in physical activities such as moving along the stairs or partaking in PE classes, 54% female students admitted to experiencing awkward situations due to entangled áo dài, which considerably affected their mental health and self-confidence. The conflict between cultural pride and inconveniences in daily life has sparked multiple debates, especially when put in comparison with other countries. 

In Japan, "seifuku" for female students (a uniform with short-sleeved sailor shirt and pleated skirt) and "gakuran" for male students (military style stand-up collar blazer and trousers) have become an icon in popular culture. As per Asahi Shimbun , one of Japan's most prestigious newspapers, these uniforms date back to the Meiji era, late 19th century, when the country adopted Western practices to modernize education. The prime goal was bringing about uniformity, bridging the gap between rich and poor, and cultivating discipline.
South Korea also has the same approach with the "Gyobok" set - usually a shirt, vest or sweater, combined with skirt or trousers. According to an article in Korea Herald (October 15, 2020), uniforms in Korea are not only practical but also reflect the collective spirit, a core value in this country's society. Meanwhile, in the UK, school uniforms (usually shirts, sweaters, skirts or pants) came from renowned state schools such as Eton or Harrow since the 16th century, with the goal of building a professional and unified image.

On the contrary, in France, Germany and the US, the educational philosophy promoting personal freedom is prevalent. According to Le Monde On the contrary, in France, Germany and the US, the educational philosophy promoting personal freedom is prevalent. According to Le Monde (September 12, 2018), uniforms were once popular among French public schools in the early 20th century, but were abolished in 1968 after the student movement for freedom of speech. Today, French students take the liberty in choosing their own clothes, with the exception in some private schools. In the US, uniforms are not compulsory in the majority of public schools. As per National Center for Education Statistics's 2022 data only about 20% of public schools require uniforms, mainly to ensure security and ease the pressure on fashion. Similar practices take place in Germany, where the freedom of individuality expression through clothing is supported.

Similarities and differences

Whether there is uniform or not, the primary objective of the aforementioned countries is to create the best learning environment for students, their future leaders. By this token, uniform designs should be based on simplicity, modernity, and suitability to school activities, rather than on tradition. Consequently, this questions the motives behind Vietnam's choice of a traditional costume, áo dài, as the uniform for female students whilst the others give precedence to convenience and gender neutrality.

Vietnam and the conception of wearing áo dài as school uniform

Áo dài: A cultural symbol

Be that as it may, compared to school uniforms in other countries, áo dài differs noticeably:

– Cultural distinctiveness: Unlike Japan’s seifuku or South Korea’s gyobok—which are specifically designed for school settings—the ao dai is a traditional garment deeply rooted in national identity. This makes it not merely a school uniform, but also a cultural symbol entrusted to the younger generation.

– Practicality: With its ankle-length design, form-fitting silhouette, and high slits, the ao dai is not truly suitable for physical activities in school settings such as running, sports, or manual tasks. In contrast, school uniforms in Japan, South Korea, and the United Kingdom are designed to optimize comfort and ease of movement for students.

An article by Thanh Niên Newspaper (March 5, 2023) revealed that wearing áo dài all day long in the hot weather of Vietnam is deemed a challenge by many female students, not to mention the difficulties related to cycling and attending PE classes, thus turning it into an "obligation" rather than a sensible choice.

Cultural imposition compared to other countries?

In many countries that have school uniforms, gender flexibility has gained significant attention in recent years. According to The Japan Times (2019, June 10), several Japanese schools have allowed female students to choose between skirts and trousers to ensure comfort and equality. South Korea has witnessed a similar trend, with many schools permitting female students to wear trousers instead of skirts during winter. In the UK, schools have also started implementing gender-neutral uniform policy, allowing students to freely choose between skirts and trousers regardless of their gender, as The Guardian reported (2017, September 15). This flexibility not only brings comfort but also reflects a progressive spirit in respecting individuality and eliminating gender stereotypes in education.

In contrast, school uniform regulations in Vietnam reveal an evident gender inequality. Female students are required to wear áo dài—a garment that requires modesty and elegance, while, at times, causing inconvenience—while their male peers only need to wear shirts and trousers, with simple designs that support mobility. According to an article on Báo Giáo dục & Thời đại (2022, March 8), many argue that this reflects a traditional mindset that views women as symbols of "beauty" and "identity," whereas men are not subjected to the same pressure.

This raises a question: Is the mandatory requirement for female students to wear áo dài truly a tradition, or is it merely a norm established from the male perspective, where women are burdened with the role of being “symbols” rather than given the right to choose?

Mandating wearing áo dài can be seen as a form of gender stereotyping. Beautiful as it is, áo dài inadvertently restricts the freedom of female students in the school environment, while male students do not face any comparable constraints. This leads to a reality where tradition, if not adjusted to fit contemporary times, becomes a tool that perpetuates inequality rather than honoring cultural values.

Áo dài: a national tradition or a shackle on women?

To better understand áo dài, we must look back at its origins and evolution. According to Culture Newspaper (Báo Văn hóa) (2023, October 10), the precursor of áo dài is áo giao lĩnh, a simple garment with a cross-collared and loose-fitting design, prevalent during the Lý-Trần dynasties between the 11th and 14th century. In 1744, during the Nguyễn Dynasty, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát reformed áo giao lĩnh into áo ngũ thân, with five flaps symbolizing the Confucian virtues of "Ren” (kindness), “Yi” (decorum), “Li” (uprightness), “Zhi” (wisdom), and “Xin” (faithfulness). This marked a significant milestone in the history of the Vietnamese áo dài.

However, the modern áo dài we know today has been greatly influenced by Western fashion. According to Báo Tuổi Trẻ (2022, June 15), in the 1930s, artist Nguyễn Cát Tường, also known as Le Mur, modernized áo ngũ thân into áo dài tân thời (modern áo dài), featuring a tighter fit, high slits, and puffed sleeves, which was inspired by European gowns. By the 1960s, the Raglan-style áo dài, with diagonal sleeve seams, was introduced in Saigon, reducing wrinkles at the underarms and enhancing aesthetics. Thus, áo dài is not a "purely Vietnamese" garment fixed in time but rather a product of cultural fusion over centuries.

Áo dài tân thời is not necessarily an “age-old” cultural beauty closely tied to Vietnamese adolescents and students for centuries. It is a product of cultural fusion between the West and the East, emerging only in the 20th century. Viewing áo dài as a long-held cultural symbol and mandating female students to wear it as uniform to “preserve tradition” is not entirely convincing, since the history of áo dài itself demonstrates its constant transformation and adaptation, rather than being an immutable heritage. Instead of imposing it, encouraging people to wear áo dài should be considered as a way to honor the creativity and flexibility of Vietnamese culture. For instance, organizing special events where students can wear áo dài voluntarily, or promoting it as a fashion choice in daily life, would not only preserve its beauty, but also align with the modern spirit without being restrictive.

When tradition becomes a tool of oppression

Although áo dài is a national pride, its mandatory use in schools raises several concerns. If áo dài truly represents Vietnamese identity, why is it only women—especially female students—that are required to wear it, while men rarely have to wear the male version in similar contexts? According to Báo Phụ nữ Việt Nam (2021, March 8), some cultural studies researchers argue that this is a remnant of feudal thinking, in which women are seen as "keepers of tradition," while men are granted more freedom of choice. The imposition of áo dài on female students further underscores a broader issue—the shaping of women's roles and images in society. áo dài has long been hailed as "the beauty of Vietnamese women" with its soft, graceful contours. However, when it becomes a mandatory standard, the individual choice and freedom of women are restricted. These limitations not only affect the confidence of female students but also reinforce outdated stereotypes that hamper the independent and creative development of younger generations.

A progressive culture is not one that imposes, but one that respects individual freedom. The compulsory wearing of áo dài does not necessarily enhance its cultural value; rather, it may alienate young people from it. A survey by VnExpress (2023, March 10) reveals that more than 60% of interviewed female students expressed appreciation for the áo dài but did not want to wear it daily due to its inconvenience.

To ensure that áo dài truly retains its cultural meaning, it should be made a voluntary choice—a way for youths to express their love for tradition rather than a rigid requirement in education. As Vietnamese people, we cherish áo dài not just for its beauty but also for its historical and cultural values. However, these values shine most brightly when áo dài is worn out of willingness rather than obligation. 

Instead of restricting áo dài to school uniforms, we could promote its use during festivals, cultural events, or even in everyday fashion. Designers such as Minh Hạnh and Sĩ Hoàng have demonstrated that áo dài can be modernized—from short-sleeved versions to those paired with wide-leg trousers—preserving tradition while adapting to modern lifestyles.

Áo dài is an inseparable part of Vietnamese culture, yet its role in education needs reconsideration. Compared to school uniforms in other countries, áo dài stands out for its cultural distinctiveness, but it also exposes concerns over practicality and gender equality. Áo dài should be celebrated as a source of pride, not a burden, especially for the younger generations of Vietnam.